Purple lavender fields in the Darent Valley

There is briefly a rare aroma along the Darent Valley as fields begin to turn purple.

The first serious colour on England’s largest lavender plantation appeared last week and it will increase day by day until harvesting in mid-month.

Castle Farm, between Lullingstone Castle and Shoreham, only planted lavender in 1998 giving the already beautiful valley a French feel.

But France tends to grow the Lavantin verity whilst Castle Farm also has the Folgate which is appearing first.

Castle Farm’s own unique strong smelling Ladybird follows.

The Pilgrims’ Way runs along the bottom of the purple fields and close to the farm shop across the lane where lavender in many forms and ice cream can be purchased.

All pictures are taken from the path which has been sensitively resurfaced by the Darent Valley Landscape Partnership Scheme with help from the final European funding and the National Lottery Heritage Fund.

Park Field has the early blooms
Cowshed Field colour is following fast
The path carrying the Pilgrims Way has a new surface thanks to final European funding
The far end of the Cowshed Field by the path
The valley has a French feel already with the straight path and line of trees. Look back at the end here for a view of the purple on the valley’s east side
More purple on the east side of the valley

St Swithun’s Day at Winchester Cathedral

St Swithun’s Shrine with a cover depicting the rain which according to folklore might fall for forty days if it rains on St Swithun’s Day

A week after the Translation of St Thomas, with the focus on Canterbury, there is St Swithun’s Day on Saturday 15 July.

At Winchester Cathedral the boy choristers will sing the first evensong of St Swithun on Friday 14 July ay 5.30pm.

On Saturday, St Swithun’s Day, evensong will be sung at 4.30pm by the Winchester Cathedral Chamber Choir and attended by the Cathedral Friends. The service ends with a procession to St Swithun’s shrine site.

Both services will be broadcast live on the Cathedral website.

Translation of St Thomas at Canterbury

The shrine site in the Trinity Chapel above the Quire

This year 2023 the Translation of St Thomas of Canterbury, Thomas Becket, falls on Friday 7 July.

The day is the anniversary of St Thomas Becket’s body being moved in 1220 from Canterbury Cathedral‘s crypt to the shrine upstairs in the rebuilt Trinity Chapel at the east end of the cathedral church.

Some pilgrims aim to arrive on this day as it is easier and warmer than the 29 December St Thomas Becket Day.

At 8am the Eucharist will be celebrated at the Altar of the Swordspoint in the Martyrdom, the site of the Archbishop’s murder in December 1170.

There will be another Eucharist (also Anglican) at 12.30pm in the Chapel of Our Lady Undercroft in the crypt.

The Roman Catholic Mass in the cathedral is at 7.30pm followed by light refreshments in the chapter house.

The main ecumenical service, attended by the Cathedral Friends, is Solemn Evensong sung by the lay clerks at 5.30pm followed by a procession to the site of the shrine.

Evensong will be broadcast live on the cathedral website.

Winchester keeps St Swithun’s Day a week later.

The golden nest at Southwark Cathedral

Nest seen from the high pavement of London Bridge Approach

Before you set out from Southwark Cathedral on your pilgrimage you may wish sit next to William Shakespeare in the churchyard or say hello to Hodge the cat.

This summer you can also look for a large golden nest made from reflective wire in a plane tree.

You will find the nest by Angela Wright in the Cathedral’s herb garden.

‘Nesting is something we have ‘in common’,’ says Angela. ‘We animals nest to protect us and our ‘eggs’… an enclosure for nurturing families.

‘Nests are architectural in construction and use. Birds may use twigs, weaving them one by one into a sustainable nest; distinctive in design according to species and habitat.

‘There are high rise nests, or those on water’s edge, in a colony inside a hedgerow, or on a cliff face and there are squatters who build no nest at all.

‘Mine is a mental nest.’

Prayer

The Dean of Southwark, The Very Revd Andrew Nunn, has written a prayer:

Hospitable God,

in whose kingdom trees

the birds nest,

in whose Temple

the sparrow finds a home:

May we dwell in your house,

nestle in your love,

and know you as the God

of open door

and open heart.

Amen

Nest seen from the Herb Garden

The Herb Garden is outside the east end of Southwark Cathedral. The nest came also be seen from the high pavement of London Bridge approach.

The installation is part of the London Festival of Architecture.

Kentish Drovers: Application to restore Old Kent Road mural

A view of the Old Kent Road mural before long term damage

There are plans for the former Kentish Drovers pub building in Old Kent Road, part of the Pilgrims’ Way, to be restored.

The pub, on the corner of Commercial Way, has been a landmark since at least 1838 due to having England’s longest pub sign.

This takes the form of a curving mural of extremely rare ceramic block Doulton tiles. The signed picture, depicting a rural Old Kent Road, is by a female artist although the name ‘ALICE D…’ has become indecipherable.

Work will include the conservation and restoration of the mural which is damaged

The pub’s original name was The Kentish Drovers and Halfway House being halfway between Deptford and London Bridge. Drovers and their flocks of sheep and cattle once came over Shooters Hill and up the Old Kent Road from Kent on their way to Smithfield. Nearby Drovers Place may indicate the site of a field used for resting and grazing.

The corner building is now occupied by the New Saigon restaurant. The interior retains late 19th-century carved mahogany fittings and engraved glass.

The frame of the Truman’s pub sign remains on the pavement.

The restoration of the building exterior, along with its deteriorating mural, is being made possible with the help of a £15,000 grant from the Heritage of London Trust as well as Community Infrastructure Levy payments.

Southwark Council will consider the planning application shortly with work expected to start next year. The former pub remains on Historic England’s At Risk Register.

Part of the mural today with the artist’s name only partly visible

Ascension Day in Southwark

The Shard and tower of Southwark Cathedral

Those planning to start their pilgrimage to Canterbury this Thursday or Friday morning from Southwark may wish to know the arrangements at Southwark Cathedral for Ascension Day, Thursday 18 May.

At 8am on Thursday the Dean will be leading a group of people up to the top of the tower to sing Ascension Day hymns and hear the reading from the Acts of the Apostles.

Those wishing to join in should be aware that there are a great many steps to climb. The group will descend in time for Morning Prayer at 9am.

The Ascension Day Choral Eucharist is at 5.30pm.

An organ meditation of music and poetry celebrating the feast of the Ascension follows at 7pm. Music will include L’Ascension by Olivier Messiaen.

Brewers remember their patron St Thomas

The new window in Brewers’ Hall

A window has been unveiled at the City of London’s Brewers’ Hall to remember the Brewers’ patron St Thomas Becket.

It was commissioned from the Stained Glass Studios at Canterbury Cathedral and designed by its director Léonie Seliger whose work is seen in the Pilgrim’s Way churches at Boughton Aluph and Godmersham.

The design features the Brewers’ Company’s current coat of arms, granted in 1544 following the Reformation when Henry VIII expunged the Becket name from the calendar and banned pilgrimage. But the ‘new’ arms managed a subtle reference to their now secret patron by including a female moorish figure with golden hair to represent Becket’s step mother from North Africa.

Thomas Becket’s father was a malt merchant known as Gilbert the Brewer.

The original Brewers’ shield incorporating Becket’s archbishop arms, with its three choughs proper and pallium, is depicted below.

The Company’s Master Jonathan Neame, the Clerk and the Beadle, together with a number of volunteers from Shepherd Neame Brewery, walked the Pilgrims’ Way to collect the glass. This was handed over to the Master by the Archdeacon of Canterbury on the martyrdom site in Canterbury Cathedral.

The unveiling in London was performed by the Master who is also Shepherd Neame chief executive. His brewery produces the Bishops Finger ale which takes its name from the finger-shaped signposts pointing pilgrims the way to Canterbury and the tomb of Thomas Becket. It is one of the UK’s oldest bottled beers.

Bishops Finger

Coronation ale label inspired by pub sign on Pilgrims’ Way

The label for Carolean Crown, a limited edition ale brewed to mark the Coronation of King Charles III, is based on a pub sign found on the Pilgrims’ Way in Southwark.

The pub’s name is a reference to the future Charles II hiding in an oak tree during the Cromwellian period.

The pub sign, above The Royal Oak in Southwark’s Tabard Street, is by Sussex artist Julian Bell.

The same artist has reworked the sign for the label chosen by Harvey’s brewery in Lewes for the celebration ale.

Southwark’s Royal Oak is a Harvey’s pub.

Carolean Crown pale ale is the lightest beer ever produced by Harvey’s and is described as ‘fresh with fragrant citrus notes’.

The bottled version (4% ABV) is blended with a portion of Elizabethan Ale, aged in oak casks, to mark the transition to a second Carolean era.

Pilgrim passports can be stamped at the Royal Oak.

May Day: Dawn on the Pilgrims’ Way

St Martha’s Church on St Martha’s Hill

Morris dancers will be up early on the two high points of the Pilgrims’ Way on May Day, Monday 1 May.

On St Martha’s Hill near Guildford the Pilgrim Morris are being joined by the Guildford Vox Community Choir at 5am to await, with song in the darkness, sunrise at 5.35am.

Further east the Kingston Spring Grove Morris, Ewell St Mary Morris Men and the Rampant Rooster Morris are meeting at the Box Hill viewpoint at 5am. Note that this top viewpoint is higher than the Pilgrims’ Way which runs round the south side of the hill.

In Rochester the rising sun is welcomed a little later at 8am with Jack in the Green making an appearance for the Awakening. There will be music and dancing around the cathedral for the rest of the day.

At Otford, where pilgrims from Southwark and Winchester meet, there is a fair on Palace Field with maypole dancing at 11.30am and 1pm.

To Canterbury from Winchester and London / Leigh Hatts