All posts by Leigh Hatts

Winchester Friends look back over centuries

Rain depicted on St Swithun’s shrine. Sunshine is on the other side.

The Friends of Winchester Cathedral’s 90th anniversary festal evensong on Saturday looked back to St Swithun and the beginning of the cathedral .

The service, broadcast online to Friends unable to be present, included impressive camerawork featuring unusual views around the building.

After a procession to St Swithun’s shrine there were prayers of thanks invoking names we meet along the Pilgrims’ Way including Richard de Lucy, Richard Fox and Jane Austen.

Former BBC presenter and Friends Chair Bruce Parker laid flowers not only at the shrine but also on Swithun’s original outdoor grave. It was the translation to inside which gave rise to the forty days of rain or sun story.

The service is available to watch online.

St Swithun’s Day is Thursday 15 July when the weather is expected to improve.

Translation evensong live from Canterbury

A candle burns on site of Thomas Becket’s shrine

Choral evensong is being broadcast online live from Canterbury Cathedral on Wednesday the Feast of the Translation of St Thomas of Canterbury.

Before the pandemic the annual service was in the choir and followed by a procession of canons to the shrine in a pre-Reformation tradition.

At present services are sung in the nave.

This is the 801st anniversary of Thomas Becket’s body being moved from the crypt to his new shrine upstairs. Archbishop Stephen Langton presided in the presence of King Henry II’s grandson Henry III.

Cathedral Cats Day


David Guest, vicar of Otford, is coming up the Pilgrims’ Way to host Southwark Cathedral’s Stories of Cats day.

Cathedral cat Hodge is expected to be around on Saturday 7 August to welcome visitors joining the day event.

Speakers include George Hoyle (aka Cunning Folk) on The Folklore of Cats, Dr Kathleen Walker-Meikle on Literary Cats in History and Celia Haddon on How to Read Your Cat.

Anita Kelsey is calling her talk Claws: Confessions of a Professional Cat Groomer.

Julia Bird is speaking on The Poetry of Cats.

Pilgrims often had Hodge’s famous predecessor Doorkins on their of what to look for list before setting out for Canterbury.

Tickets are £18. Full details and booking are here.

**David Guest is vicar of St Bartholomew’s Otford where the Pilgrims’ Way paths from Winchester and Southwark converge. The village has associations with St Thomas Becket and The Bull pub has a Becket seat.

Otford church seen across the duck pond roundabout.


THEATRE IN Lesnes ABBEY

Nancy Sullivan

Nancy Sullivan, who has appeared in west end productions and BBC1’s Call the Midwife, is bringing theatre to Lesnes Abbey.

She has formed the The Ruined Theatre company to stage Our Teacher’s a Troll, a play for all the family by Dennis Kelly.

The performances are in mid August and will be at 10am and lunchtime which will enable passing pilgrims to enjoy the show.

Lesnes Abbey was founded in 1178 and is dedicated to St Thomas Becket. After being closed in 1525 by Cardinal Wolsey the monastery has become an attractive ruin with just one church service a year.

Visitors to the Augustinian community, used to receiving pilgrims travelling from London to Canterbury, included Geoffrey Chaucer.

Now on the edge of London, Lesnes was once considered a first stop on horseback out of London before reaching Dartford.

Nancy lives next to the Abbey which she visits daily. Her plans include an ambitious programme to attract and involve others living nearby.

The Ruined Theatre’s first poster

These Days Will Pass

The candles are lit for the midday Eucharist in front of Mark Titchner’s artwork

These days will pass and we shall more easily be able to go on pilgrimage. But we don’t know what it will be like.

‘Please believe these days will pass’ is the message seen by visitors to Southwark Cathedral and most certainly by those present at the midday Eucharist at 12.45pm which is usually at the nave altar.

A huge installation at the east end is by Mark Titchner whose work is found in many public collections. Me, Here Now has a permanent place in nearby London Bridge Station.

The words on the banner in the cathedral evolved during the pandemic after the artist found his poster work Please Believe These Days was being shared on social media by his friends.

‘Mark Titchner’s monumental installation in Southwark Cathedral will be a stark reminder that we need to look beyond these islands to a world still suffering,’ says Dean of Southwark Andrew Nunn.

He quotes the words of Jesus about the passing of days: ‘Truly I tell, this generation will not pass away until all things have taken place. Heaven and earth will pass away, but my words will not pass away.’ (Luke 21. 32-33)

The Dean describes the artwork as ‘both reassuring yet realistic’ and asks ‘these days may pass, but what will remain, what will we find, what is there new that awaits us beyond the passing?’

A sermon preached by the Dean on the Feast of Corpus Christi, when the installation was first revealed, can be seen here (from 16.35).

The artwork will remain in place until Friday 23 July.

Canterbury’s Becket anniversary exhibition

Exhibition poster in Canterbury

Canterbury’s own Thomas Becket anniversary exhibition has opened after the long delay caused by the virus.

Has the wait been worth it? Certainly Thomas Becket: World Celebrity Healer at The Beaney is very well researched with the organisers having the advantage of access to local material.

Even the chronology at the entrance is extremely thorough and a must to read before you see the exhibits.

Casually on the floor are two pink marble capitals believed to come from Becket’s shrine. They were found forty years ago in the river near the West Gate.

There is much evidence provided of how quickly devotion to Becket spread following his murder in 1170 and of his memory being kept alive during the years following the Reformation.

The murder is described as being as great a shock as the assassination of President Kennedy or the death of Diana, Princess of Wales was in the 20th century.

Becket’s image was quickly found as far south as Sicily and east in Sweden where his statue was dressed in his own vestments.

The show suggests that the few relics we have today, despite Henry VIII’s destruction of the shrine, come from 1220 when the cathedral opened the coffin prior to the body being placed in that final upstairs shrine.

Photographs include Bill Brandt’s Pilgrims Way, Kent (1950) which is described as ‘one of his most abstract and mysterious’.

One of Elisabeth Frink’s Canterbury 1971 etchings of pilgrims depicts Arrival at Canterbury.

William Blake’s 1810 print showing Chaucer’s pilgrims leaving Southwark reminds us how the pilgrimage was being highlighted and recognised in the early 19th century.

In a brief look at the wider world of pilgrimage there are two photographs by Czech photographer and pilgrimage expert Marketa Luskacova taken in Slovakia and Ireland.

It is interesting to find that Canterbury Cathedral’s chapter house has long been a venue for Becket theatre.

There in 1897 Henry Irving gave a reading of his role as Becket in Alfred Tennyson’s play which in 1932 was fully staged in the same long room.

Just two years later it was the venue for the premiere of TS Eliot’s Murder in the Cathedral.

When Robert Donat played the role of Becket in a new production of the play at The Old Vic in Coronation Year 1953 he received twenty curtain calls on the opening night.

It appears that the play was only written and premiered at the Canterbury Cathedral thanks to Margaret Babington, cathedral Friends’ treasurer, who had played Eleanor of Aquitaine in Tennyson’s play. A letter reveals how Dean Hewlitt Johnson was primed by her to agree to it.

The many items on show embrace holy water bottles old and new, pilgrim badges and even a bottle of Bishops Finger ale available today at pubs on the PW.

An hour is probably not long enough to look at everything. The museum should consider publishing a souvenir catalogue of the show which only runs until Sunday 4 July.

Thomas Becket; World Celebrity Healer at The Beaney is open Tuesday to Sunday; admission free. Booking ahead is essential whilst social distancing rules are required.

One of the pink marble capitals from Thomas Becket’s shrine

The exhibition has a photograph of an Exeter Cathedral roof boss depicting Becket’s murder. It was put in place about 1341 at the instigation of Bishop John Grandisson who had a special devotion to St Thomas.
Joseph and Elizabeth Pennell’s A Canterbury Pilgrimage (1885) open at Canterbury pages. The American couple explored the PW from London on a tandem tricycle.




Cycling PW with Paulo

Paulo in Seale

Paulo Seth’s introductory film about cycling from Winchester to Canterbury is now online.

Fifteen further films for each stage follow weekly.

The route is not exactly the same as the footpath since cyclists have to avoid kissing gates as well as other problems.

But the Pilgrims’ Way often has parallel paths even for walkers and horse riders. In the past this was sometimes the result of the main path being too muddy in winter.

The first video can be seen now here.

Paulo tackled the Pilgrims’ Way during the pandemic after much experience of other major pilgrim routes. The PW, in four days, is his shortest.

The Winchester to Canterbury journey was filmed by German television.

His blog provides added interest.

**Attractive pilgrim T-shirts and shell badges can be purchased online through an associated website.

British Museum’s Becket exhibition now open

Detail from Canterbury Cathedral’s fifth miracle window

The long-awaited Thomas Becket: Murder and the making of a saint exhibition has opened at the British Museum.

This was to have been part of the 2020 Becket anniversary programme of events until we were hit by the pandemic.

The show will now run until Sunday 22 August but tickets should be booked in advance.

It seems odd to see a window from Canterbury Cathedral in the exhibition. Should we not see this when we have walked there? But in Bloomsbury we can inspect the restored glass close up and with lots of explanation.

It was first installed in the cathedral just before the Becket shrine was completed in 1220.

It is interesting to see the immediate reach of Becket for some churches elsewhere and even abroad were ahead of Canterbury in honouring the saint.

The Tudor period brought destruction to the shrine but it also gave us another Becket in the form of St Thomas More. Rochester’s John Fisher and Thomas More are today both PW saints who we encounter on the way and they are recognised here.

As arriving pilgrims we might buy a badge or T-shirt in Canterbury cathedral’s new shop. A token on sale is a replica of one being shown in the exhibition.

If you are unable to travel at present or think £22 is too much for an exhibition ticket on top of a train fare it may be worth considering buying the catalogue.

The exhibition souvenirs, including shell keyrings, pendants and earrings along with miracle window mugs, can be bought online.

Tim Stanley, enthusing in the Daily Telegraph about the exhibition, expressed the strong view that the relic of St Thomas on display is so profoundly special and holy that it should really be seen in a church rather than a museum.

You can see a bone relic of the saint and martyr in St Thomas of Canterbury Church in Canterbury’s Burgate without payment. It is a highpoint of the pilgrimage arrival.

Cathedrals open again

Southwark Cathedral below The Shard which is seen from the PW at many points

Pilgrimage is again possible.

Winchester, Southwark, Rochester and Canterbury Cathedrals are all open from today.

We can now attempt walking to Canterbury from Southwark in London or Winchester in Hampshire.

Pilgrim passports can be obtained at Winchester or Southwark on the day you set out.

Pubs and bed & breakfasts are allowed to reopen but not all are opening immediately.

Check and book ahead to be sure.

Winchester Cathedral’s nave looking towards Jane Austen’s tomb.
Rochester Cathedral from the castle
Canterbury Cathedral: Becket shrine site

St Oscar Romero Day 2021

St Oscar Romero

St Oscar Romero Day is Wednesday 24 March.

This year is the 41st anniversary of St Oscar Romero’s martyrdom. He died in church at the hands of the state like another archbishop, Thomas Becket.

‘The name Romero means pilgrim,’ said Dr Gemma Simmonds CJ earlier this month. ‘If we need a companion to help us on our way, then, in the saint of El Salvador, we could not find a better one.’

The Oscar Romero UK shrine is at St George’s Roman Catholic Cathedral in Southwark near the start of the Pilgrims’ Way.

His relics can be found at Canterbury, alongside those of Thomas Becket, in St Thomas of Canterbury Church next to the cathedral.

Next Saturday 27 March, on the eve of Holy Week, there will be a Romero Mass at 12.30pm in Southwark’s St George’s Cathedral (opposite the Imperial War Museum).

Archbishop of Southwark John Wilson will preside and preach. He
will also commission four Guardians of the Romero Shrine: Mgr John O’Toole, Canon Alan McLean, Kathleen O’Brien and Julian Filochowski who will have the responsibility to foster devotion to St Oscar Romero and to assist the Dean Richard Hearne in the oversight of the Shrine.

The Mass will be live streamed on www.romerotrust.org.uk